This exhibit dives into the process of what the museum does when historic objects are donated to us. Along with giving you tips on preserving family heirlooms.
Display copies of important documents instead of the original.
If originals are displayed, keep light exposure to a minimum.
Display a document for a while and then store it so that no single item is exposed to light for long periods of time.
Turn off the lights when no one is in a room. Use lower wattage bulbs.
Place on walls that get the least amount of sun.
Close draperies and blinds when out of the room for extended periods of time or when not at home.
Use ultraviolet filtering glass or acrylic for framed paper items. Use an acid-free mat or a spacer so the document does not touch the glass.
Store important documents in a cool, dry place where there is minimal fluctuation in temperature and humidity. Generally avoid attics and basements.
Letters and other documents are best stored unfolded and flat. Items to large to store flat are better stored rolled than folded.
Use acid-free sleeves, envelopes, storage boxes, or albums. Polyester or polypropylene sleeves and pages are also acceptable.
Never put an adhesive on a document or paper that you wish to keep permanently. Use photo corners or polyester mounting strips or sleeves to mount items in albums.
Remove paper clips and rubber bands, both of which can cause permanent damage to paper.
Keep highly acidic paper such as newspapers and clippings from touching other paper items. Acids in newsprint will “migrate” to other paper that it touches. The acids that migrate cause irreversible damage by oxidation that is seen as yellowing and darkening.
If newspapers clippings are being kept for the content as distinct from keeping the original paper as an artifact, photocopy onto acid-free paper, which will last much longer than the original.
Handle important papers and photos by their edges and with clean hands to avoid soiling the surface.
Light changes things
The human eye can only see a small portion of all light. The portion we can see is called the visible spectrum.
The most damaging type of light is ultraviolet, but visible and infrared light also cause significant damage
Not all objects are susceptible to light damage: stone and metal are generally safe (although they can be affected by other environmental factors such as moisture, temperature, and air pollution.)
Prints and paintings (particularly watercolors), textiles, paper, newsprint, feathers, and dyed leather are all sensitive to light exposure.
In general, black-and-white photographic prints last longer than color images.
Today’s films have been engineered to better withstand the effects of light. Still, all photographs fade over time.
The longer the exposure and the brighter the light, the faster and greater the fading.
Specialized glass and films applied to glass can block up to 99 percent of UV rays.
The incandescent light bulb was invented in 1870.
The fluorescent light bulb was invented in 1927.
Unless filtered, fluorescent lights are more damaging than incandescent lights.
Silver
Use your silver. Active use and gentle cleansing prevents the build up of tarnish
Wash silver with mild soap and warm water. Dry completely with a soft cloth. Be careful not to leave moisture inside hollow items.
Silver polishing cloths are a gentle alternative for polishing
When necessary, gently polish by using a mild silver polish. Follow polishing by rinsing away any remaining polish with a mild soap and warm water. When tarnish first forms on silver, it may be yellow or gold colored. At this stage it is easily removed without polish. Simply wipe with clean soft cloth.
Handle silver with clean hands, a clean soft cloth or cotton gloves to avoid leaving fingerprints.
Keep silver away from corrosive materials like acidic food, salt, newspaper, wool, or rubber
Store silver items in soft cloth bags or wrapped in soft cloth such as cotton flannel.
Other Metals
When polishing is necessary, use the least abrasive polish that will do the job.
Bronze, brass, copper, and metal may have a natural patina that has built up over many years. Often this protects metal from damaging, active corrosion. Wipe these carefully with a damp cloth then wipe dry.
Gold does not tarnish so it only requires dusting or occasional wiping with a damp cloth.
Bronze, brass, and copper also may have an applied patina or finish including gold plate, silver gilt, or gold varnish. Polishing may damage or destroy these finishes, so check with an expert if you are not sure about you item.
Pewter is metallic grey in color and can be mistaken from silver. The natural patina that forms on pewter is not a problem and should be preserved, so dust or occasionally wipe with a damp cloth and dry thoroughly.
Coins
In general, refrain from cleaning coins. To remove dirt, wash in warm water with a mild soap and a soft brush. Rinse in distilled water and then soak in alcohol.
Handle valuable coins only when necessary. Use clean cotton gloves.
Store valuable coins in archival materials, such as polyester sleeves, polyethylene bags or polyester or acrylic boxes.
Display
Display textiles in low ight. Avoid direct sun and fluorescent light.
Framed textiles, such as samplers, may benefit from having ultraviolet light-filtering glass installed.
Display textiles for limited periods of time to reduce damage from exposure to excessive amounts of light. Put items on display for a while and then replace with other items.
Storage
Keep textiles out of sun and fluorescent light as much as possible.
Store fabric where temperature and humidity are moderate and consistent; avoid attics and basements.
Store folded textiles with as few folds and creases as possible.
Use acid-free boxes with acid-free tissue or white bed sheets tucked in the folds to prevent sharp creases.
When hanging clothing, use padded hangers to prevent creases and stress to the shoulders. The hanger should be no wider than the width of the garment at the shoulders.
Large flat textiles like quilts, rugs or shawls can be rolled onto tubes. A large diameter tube is best. If using an acidic cardboard tube, cover it with layer of acid-free paper.
Inspect stored materials periodically for insect damage. Do not use pesticides or mothballs. Cedar chests are generally acceptable as long as textiles are not in direct contact with the wood.
Cleaning
Textiles and clothing may be vacuumed periodically to remove dust. use the bristled, round furniture brush on low suction. vacuuming through a clean piece of nonmetallic window screen will keep delicate fabric and loose threads from being pulled into the vacuum.
Some textiles, such as white cotton or linen clothing, may be washed or cleaned.
Dry cleaning antique clothing and other textiles is usually not recommended. Commercial dry cleaning uses strong solvents, heat and a lot of hard tumbling or mechanical action.